The GameMaster's Blackjack School
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Lesson 3: Counting Cards - The Basics
With this lesson, I'm going to unwrap
the veil of mystery which seems to surround the concept of
card counting. Here you will discover that you don't have
to be a genius to keep track of all the cards in a six-deck
shoe; you just have to know a few card-counter secrets.
The first "secret" is that we don't
memorize the cards in a deck. Instead, each card is assigned
a point-value and all we are really doing is adding those
point values together and then converting that information
into a usable form. Just what those point values are depends
upon which counting system a player decides to use. In this
school, I'll be teaching the "High / Low" or "Plus / Minus"
system but if you choose to learn another one, everything
I'm going to teach still applies.
The other big "secret" about card counting
is how we do it at the Blackjack table. I think most people
who have flirted with counting can get a good grasp of it
at home but once they hit all the distractions of a casino
their ability to keep track of the cards, play their hand
properly and get a bet into the circle on time breaks down.
Remember when I told you that it was a MUST for you to know
basic strategy as well as you know your own name? Now you'll
begin to see why that's necessary; you don't need more things
to think about when you're "on the green".
Pick a System
There are a lot of different card-counting
systems available and -- like most things in life -- each
has its advantages and its disadvantages. I'll try to sort
through the most popular and help you choose one which is
right for you. Probably the most important factor in choosing
a system is the type of game you'll be playing most of the
time. For example, if you play mostly in the Reno/Tahoe area,
you should learn a system which performs well against single
deck games. If you play in my old stomping grounds, Atlantic
City, you'll want to learn a system which is powerful in multi-deck
games.
Another important factor in selecting
a system is the amount of time you spend playing Blackjack.
This is going to surprise you, but a player who intends to
spend a lot of time at the tables should learn a very simple
system. I say that because, while this really is pretty easy,
it does require some concentration and the simpler the system,
the easier it is to concentrate for long periods of time.
On the other hand, if you're only going to play for 3 or 4
hours a week, a more difficult system may work well for you
since a difficult system is usually more powerful and it will
optimize the time you spend at the tables. Now, some of you
"Type A's" out there are thinking that you'll spend a lot
of time at the tables and use a very powerful (and complicated)
system to get the most $$$ out of your play. The problem here
is that under those circumstances, mistakes begin to creep
in and that can cause you to lose your edge. The KISS principle
applies: "Keep It Simple, Stupid". If you really want to get
the most out of the game, do what I did, learn two counting
systems. I use one for multi-deck games and another one for
single-decks. It's not that hard and as we go through the
lessons on learning how to count, you'll see how the exercises
I'll teach you can implement such a strategy.
Card-counting systems are rated by two
primary factors: Betting Efficiency (BE) and Playing Efficiency
(PE). The anomaly of counting systems is that if you increase
the BE you are, for the most part, decreasing the PE at the
same time. This happens because of the unusual role an Ace
plays in the game. For betting purposes, the Ace is a very
powerful card; it's the primary component of a "natural" which
pays 3 to 2. But for playing a hand, the Ace is of somewhat
limited value. How many times have you doubled an 11 and got
an Ace? Now you have a total of 12...exciting, huh? Hit a
14, get an Ace and you've got 15; nothing to shout about,
is it? Sure, it's great to double a 10 and get an Ace, but
that's one of the very few times when the Ace helps in the
play of a hand.
How a counting system treats the Ace
determines a lot about the BE and PE of that system. If you
need a high Betting Efficiency -- like in a multi-deck game
-- then pick a system which counts the Ace as a "big" card;
if your game of choice is single-deck, then choose a system
which treats the Ace as a "neutral" card (and keep track of
the Aces in a "side count", a trick I'll show you later.)
Multi-deck games are beaten primarily
by a large betting spread. Simply put, you bet small when
the house has the edge and much bigger when you have the edge.
A counting system with a high BE factor tells you when to
bet big. In a single-deck game, where the house knows a big
spread will win the $$$, a high PE lets you bet less and still
win. Don't forget; casinos know that their games are vulnerable
and they are on the lookout for people who can beat them.
A big betting spread is one tipoff they use to detect counters
and, depending upon where you play, being detected as a counter
may cause your expulsion ("barring") from the casino. Let
me stress that what I'm teaching you is entirely legal but
not everyone in the casino business feels as I do. There are
no laws against card-counting and you can be the best counter
in the world, but if the casinos won't let you play your skill
is wasted.
To help you decide on a count to use,
visit the series of articles called "Counting Systems" on
the Blackjack Page of GameMaster
OnLine and look at the systems which are reviewed there.
As mentioned earlier, I will be talking specifically about
the "High / Low" count, but you can learn any count by the
methods I'll use. If you're going to be at single-deck games,
the Hi-Opt 1 count is probably the best to begin with; go
with the High / Low if multi-decks are what you'll be playing.
Since I will be teaching "true count", either of those systems
will work well, regardless of where you play. Most "unbalanced"
counts don't require you to learn true count, but it's not
a big deal, so stick with one of the "balanced" counts. For
those who really want to get into it, go with Arnold Snyder's
"Zen" count, but you should buy his book, "Blackbelt in Blackjack"
to supplement what I'm teaching.
In the next lesson I'll show you how
to learn a counting system with the following "point" values:
2, 3, 4, 5, 6 = +1
7, 8, 9 = 0
10, J, Q, K, A = -1
This system has a Betting Efficiency of
.97% and a Playing Efficiency of .51%. The best system in the
world would rate about .98% BE and .70% PE, so what you'll be
learning is easy to use for long periods of time, is good at
estimating your edge for betting purposes and is just "OK" at
playing the hand properly. (But don't worry; it gets the $$$.)
By the way, there's a third rating for counting systems and
that's Insurance Efficiency. While basic strategy says to never
take insurance, once the proportion of tens in the remaining
deck(s) reaches a certain point, it becomes profitable to make
the insurance bet. The High / Low counting system has an Insurance
Efficiency of .76, which means that about 3/4 of the time you
do take insurance (as determined by the "true count"), it will
be the correct decision. But...we're getting ahead of ourselves
here, so copy your homework assignments and get outta here.
Homework
Continue working with your flashcards
at least a half-hour per day.
Do at least one "Basic Strategy Reconstruction"
each day and continue to work on your speed.
Do at least one "Basic Strategy Decision
Excercise" each day and concentrate on getting it done in
under 2 minutes.
Work with the three "Card Exercises"
and concentrate on adding up your hand as you play proper
basic strategy.
School's out for now. See you here next
time.
As always, if you have any questions,
e-mail me at
aceten1@mindspring.com
and Ill get back to you ASAP.
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