The GameMaster's Blackjack School
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Lesson 7: Money
Management - Part 1
A Sermon
I do a little bit of preaching here
on the pages of The GameMaster Online every so often, primarily
because I hate to think of people handing their money to casinos.
I'm not saying I don't lose, because I have my bad days as
well, but what I am saying is that the casinos have to fight
me for every penny they get. You need to develop that kind
of attitude and just the fact that you're reading this now
shows me that you're willing to learn, so you've got a good
start. Casinos make money because the players allow them to
make money. Even if you've learned everything I've taught
you up to this point, you're still not ready to play, so forget
about it and start building your bankroll towards the day
when you WILL be ready. You cannot expect to win at Blackjack
if you're betting the rent money. You must have a sum of money
set aside which is "extra" -- money which, should you lose
it, will not affect your lifestyle in any way. By doing it
that way, you'll bet what needs to be bet and play the hands
as they need to be played. That's what gets the $$$ at the
casino. 'Nuff said.
What is Money Management?
As it applies to playing Blackjack as
a card counter, money management is a method of betting which
will minimize your losses and maximize your gains. Playing
Blackjack carries with it the risk of loss. The advantage
a counter has over the casino is small and the fluctuations
in a player's bankroll can occur with frightening speed. Proper
management of your funds is required in all aspects of the
game to give you the best possible chance of reaching that
elusive "long term". Some of you will begin your careers as
counters with a big win and you'll never look back. Most of
you, however, will begin with a loss and it will take more
hours of play before you start showing a profit; that's just
the reality of the situation. What I'm going to teach you
in the next four or five lessons is how to survive at the
game until your long term edge begins to have its effect and
then show you how to keep the profits you make.
The True Count
All of our betting decisions will be
made on the basis of what is known as the "true count" or
more accurately, the "count per remaining deck". While most
of this applies to those who will be playing at multi-deck
games, you single-deckers pay attention, too -- you'll need
to know this as well. If six small cards come out on the first
hand in a game, we will have a running count of 6. For the
single-deck players, you will have a true count of just over
6, since there's just a bit less than one deck remaining to
be played. If you're at a six-deck game, the count per remaining
deck (the true count) is just a bit over 1, since there is
just a bit less than 6 decks remaining to be played. See how
that works? We are "standardizing" the count by dividing the
running count by the total number of remaining decks. Let's
try another example to see if you understand the concept.
At a single-deck game on the first hand, a running count of
2 (remember, I don't use "+" to indicate a positive number)
converts to a true count of 2, when rounded off. In a six-deck
game and a running count of 12 after the first hand, the true
count converts to 2. Both true counts are 2 , but it takes
a much higher running count to achieve that in the six-deck
game.
TO DETERMINE THE TRUE COUNT, DIVIDE THE "RUNNING" COUNT
BY THE NUMBER OF DECKS REMAINING TO BE PLAYED.
Don't let that statement confuse you.
What this means is the number of decks left, whether they'll
actually be played or not. In a six-deck game, a deck or more
may be cut off by the dealer, but that means nothing when
computing true count. The basis for the calculation is the
total number of decks in the game which is adjusted by the
number of decks which have been played. An example: in a six-deck
game where two decks have been played and put into the discard
rack off to the side, a running count of 8 translates into
a true count of 2 because there are four decks left in the
shoe. The dealer may shuffle before all four of those remaining
decks have been played, but for true count conversion that
doesn't matter.
Take this this little test with me to
see if you understand the principle.
|
Deck Remaining |
Running Count |
True Count |
| 1. |
4 |
8 |
2 |
| 2. |
2 |
10 |
5 |
| 3. |
5 |
5 |
1 |
| 4. |
3 |
12 |
4 |
Estimating the Number of Remaining Decks
The casinos are very nice about providing
us a device to determine just how many decks there are remaining
to be played in the shoe. No, that device is not the shoe,
but the discard tray which can be found on virtually every
table where a multi-deck game is played. As cards are used,
the dealer places them very neatly in the discard tray where
everyone can see them so counters use that, and a bit of subtraction,
to determine how many decks are left to be played. At a six-deck
game, if there are two decks in the discard tray, there has
to be four decks left in the shoe, assuming no cards are on
the table. What we strive for is to be accurate to within
a half-deck for our estimation. Just exactly how to train
for that is one of your homework assignments, so don't worry
about it for the moment. What's more important at this point
are the mechanics used to calculate the true count by that
method. Let's walk through a simple explanation together.
We're at a six-deck game, the running
count is M-6 and three decks are in the discard tray. That
means three decks remain, so we divide the running count by
3 and our true count is M-2. Yes, this works for negative
decks as well -- exactly the same way. Got it? Try this test
to see if you do.
Assume we're at a six-deck game. I'm
only going to give you the decks in the discard tray, so do
the calculation to determine the number of decks left in the
shoe.
|
Decks Played |
Running Count |
True Count |
| 1. |
2 |
4 |
? |
| 2. |
4 |
8 |
? |
| 3. |
5 |
5 |
? |
| 4. |
1 |
5 |
? |
| 5. |
2.5 |
7 |
? |
| 6. |
2 |
0 |
? |
| 7. |
3.5 |
M-5 |
? |
| 8. |
1.5 |
9 |
? |
| 9. |
3 |
M-3 |
? |
| 10. |
4.5 |
3 |
? |
The Answers
1. One (2 decks played, 4 decks remaining, 4 divided
by 4 = 1)
2. Four (4 decks played, 2 decks remaining, 8 divided
by 2 = 4)
3. Five (You're on your own now, kid.)
4. One
5. Two
6. Zero
7. M-two
8. Two
9. M-one
10. A bit over one (but we always round "down" in order
to be conservative, so we'd call this "one".)
I can see some eyes glazing over out there,
so we better stop for this week. But don't be discouraged; you
can learn this -- it just takes some practice. Speaking of practice,
pick up your homework assignment and practice "calibrating"
your eyes.
Homework
Estimating the number of decks remaining
in a discard tray is really just an exercise in repetitive staring.
If you look at a deck of 52 cards long enough, you can tell
if 10 or 12 cards have been added to it. So, that's how we calibrate
our eyes. Begin with a single deck and look it for a while.
Then, put another deck on top of it and look at that for a while.
Now, put a third deck on top and look at that for a while. Finally,
pull one deck off -- don't count the cards -- just estimate
how much a deck is, pull it off and then count it to see how
close you were. Now, put that deck back on top and pull off
two decks, count them for accuracy and put them back on top.
Now, build your stack up to five decks and pull off a deck and
a half, then three decks and so on. You'll be amazed at how
quickly you've begun to recognize how many decks are in a pile.
A nice variation to this exercise is to have a friend set up
piles of various sizes (within a half-deck accuracy) while you're
out of the room and then you come in and recite the size of
each pile.
Keep at it, because you've got to be
accurate at this. Your money will be riding on it.
See you here next week when we discuss
how to bet by using the true count.
As always, if you have any questions,
e-mail me at
aceten1@mindspring.com
and Ill get back to you ASAP.
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