The GameMaster's Blackjack School
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Lesson 8: Money
Management - Part 2
A Few Words on Single Deck
In the previous lesson, I taught you
how to figure the "true count" for a multi-deck game, but
I want to emphasize that the concept of true count also applies
to single-deck games as well. The conversion is done a bit
differently, but the result is the same; you end up with a
standardized count per remaining deck. If you see just one
card in a single-deck game, a 5 for example, you now have
a "running count" of 1 and a true count of one. That, of course,
is because there's only one deck in the game to begin with
and we determine the true count by dividing the running count
by the number of remaining decks. If, after playing several
hands the running count is 6 and there's three-fourths of
a deck left to be played, we must divide the running count
by .75 in order to determine the true count. In this instance,
the true count is 8. If we were at the halfway point of the
deck, the true count would be 6 divided by .50 = 12. Got the
concept of that? In a single-deck game, you have to divide
by fractions, and that isn't easy to do, so all you single-deck
counters need to practice this in order to figure it properly
when you play.
Betting With the True Count
For each increase of 1 in the true count
as figured by the Hi / Lo counting method, the player's advantage
increases by about .5% in the average Blackjack game. If the
casino has an edge over the basic strategy player of .40%
(6 decks, double on any first two cards, double after splitting
pairs, dealer stands on A-6), it takes a true count of just
about 1 in order to get "even" with the house. Being even
means that the player who utilizes proper basic strategy will
win as much as s/he loses -- in the long run -- at a true
count of one. A true count of 2 gives the counter an edge
of .5% over the house; a true count of 3 gives the player
an edge of 1% and so forth.
It is the edge that a player has on
the upcoming hand which determines their bet. Count- ers bet
only a small portion of their capital on any given hand, because
while they will win in the long run, they could lose any one
hand. By betting an amount which is in proportion to their
advantage (called the "Kelly Criterion"), they are maximizing
their potential while minimizing the risk. A lot of people
misinterpret the Kelly Criterion by assuming that the amount
bet is in direct proportion to the advantage. They think that
if you have a 1% edge, you should bet 1% of your "bankroll"
and that is incorrect. What they are forgetting is the doubling
and pair splitting which goes on in the course of a game and
that increases the risk or "variance" of a hand. For a game
with rules like those listed above, the optimum bet is 76%
of the player's advantage. Here's a table of optimum bets
which will work well for most multi-deck games:
| True Count |
Advantage |
% Optimum Bet |
| -1 or lower |
-1.00% or more |
0% |
| 0 |
-0.50% |
0% |
| 1 |
0% |
0% |
| 2 |
0.5%x76% |
.38% |
| 3 |
1.0%x76% |
.76% |
| 4 |
1.5%x76% |
1.14% |
| 5 |
2.0%x76% |
1.52% |
| 6 |
2.5%x76% |
1.90% |
| 7 |
3.0%x76% |
2.28% |
By using this table, you can determine
the optimal bet for any bankroll; just multiply the figure
in the last column by the amount of the bankroll. Thus, for
a bankroll of $3000, the optimal bet for a true count of 2
is .0038 X $3000 = $11.40.
Some Practical Considerations
First and foremost, it isn't practical
to bet in units of less than $1, so a betting schedule must
be rounded off. Secondly, it is more appropriate to bet in
units of $5 so that you'll look like the average gambler,
plus it cuts down on the calculations you need to make. Further,
it is impossible to refigure your optimal bet while seated
at the table, even though it should be recalculated as the
bankroll varies up and down. Finally, it just isn't possible
to play only at shoes where the true count is 2 or higher;
you will sometimes have to make bets when the house has an
edge. All of this rounding and negative-deck play cuts into
your win rate, but by knowing the conditions which can cost
you money, steps can be taken to minimize their impact on
your earnings.
The Betting Spread
A single-deck game with decent rules
in which thirty-six cards or more are used before a shuffle
can be beaten by a 1 to 4 spread. A two-deck game in which
seventy cards or more are used before the shuffle can usually
be beaten by a 1 to 6 spread. A game with four decks or more
will require a spread of 1 to 12 in order to get an edge.
We'll discuss the evaluation of games in a later lesson, but
I wanted to lay the foundation for your money management by
giving you an idea of what it takes to play winning Blackjack.
The spread is expressed in betting units, so if you play with
$5 chips, you'd be spreading from $5 to $60 in a six-deck
game. Since a counter should have a bankroll consisting of
a minimum of 50 top bets, a spread like this will require
a bankroll of $3000.
With a $3000 bankroll, a betting schedule
could look like this:
| True Count |
Player's Bet |
Optimum Bet |
| 0 or lower |
$5 |
$0 |
| 1 |
$5 |
$0 |
| 2 |
$10 |
$11.20 |
| 3 |
$20 |
$22.80 |
| 4 |
$40 |
$34.20 |
| 5 |
$50 |
$45.60 |
| 6 |
$60 |
$57.00 |
A betting schedule like this allows
you to "parlay" your bets as the count rises, thus making
you look more like a "gambler".
YOU WILL SAVE A LOT OF MONEY AND FIND MORE PROFITABLE SITUATIONS
IF YOU LEAVE A TABLE WHEN THE COUNT HAS GONE DOWN TO A TRUE
OF - 1. BUT LEAVE ONLY AFTER LOSING A HAND; NO GAMBLER WOULD
LEAVE A TABLE AFTER A WIN.
So, have I got your brain spinning?
If so, just hang in there as I'll be wrapping all this up
in a nice, easy-to-understand package in the coming weeks.
As always, get your homework, then you're outta here.
Homework
None. How's that for a break?
As always, if you have any questions, e-mail
me at
aceten1@mindspring.com
and Ill get back to you ASAP.
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